Trends are cyclical in jewelry and fashion, which is why vintage and antique jewelry is always relevant.
Now we're seeing a vintage-adjacent category that's catching on big-time with jewelry aficianados and designers alike: upcycled fine jewelry. Meaning, new pieces that designers created using preexisting jewels or elements. While upcycling jewels has been happening forever, the practice has been growing in popularity as fine jewelry designers have embraced more sustainable ways to work. "Reusing and recycling have always been inherent to the jewelry industry, so why not make it central to the concept of the jewelry itself?” asks London-based jeweler Caira Bowles, who exclusively uses recycled materials, including cameos and intaglios, in her collections.
Raluca Leafu, founder and creative director of Romanian-based brand Joule Project, embraced upcycling in her recent Something Old, Something New collection, and says she wants to send the message to "use what we already have and move away from excessive consumption.”
Cameos and intaglios, which have been around for literally centuries, are often prominent vintage objects in upcycled styles.
Designer Francesca Villa features rare vintage cameos in multiple collections that are "inspired by objets trouvés—pieces discovered on my travels, through auctions, and through collectors," she says. “I love [cameos] because they depict a life lived before us, one that we find new meaning in for our contemporary jewels."
At jewelry brand Seal & Scribe, using vintage intaglio seals is "embedded in the brand’s DNA," according to founder Shari Cohen, and they take center stage in nearly all of the brand's designs.
Jewelry designers known for making new collections are also getting into the upcycling game. Emily P. Wheeler recently launched a vintage collection with showstopper necklaces from the '60s, '70s, and '80s that she "remixes," while Mindi Mond debuted its Reconceived Collection of reworked Art Deco and Victorian-era pieces. Designer Ashley Zhang’s new designs feature all-recycled diamonds, while Heavenly Vices’ Victorian-era “Love Tokens” coin creations continue to enchant jewelry lovers.
Check out some of our favorite upcycled jewelry pieces of the season, below.
Designer Federico de Vera, owner of NYC-based vintage gallery and brand De Vera, says that “discovering antique pieces and rare fragments often creates the catalyst for my jewelry,” like this mixed media showstopper consisting of “antique French green paste, vintage Murano glass millefiori beads, pearls, coral, antique circular brooch and dark rose cut diamonds.” Antique Green Past pendant necklace, $9,850
Joule Project’s designer Raluca Leafu says she "keeps the balance between raw and fine” with this blue sapphire and diamonds vintage pendant she deconstructed and secured atop an edgy silver ring. White gold, silver, sapphires, and diamond Victorian Revival ring, $5,183
Featuring Old Mine-cut diamonds with her signature brushed satin finish links, designer Ashley Zhang is “hoping customers love that these items are the most ethical jewelry choice, as they are repurposing items from the past instead of creating a new carbon footprint.” Finley bracelet, $7,800
(Top and above) According to designer Ciara Bowles, “These cameos are from the 1970s when cameos had a real revival in jewelry fashion.” She transforms them into charming earrings by pairing with recycled gold and vintage sapphires and rubies. Recycled gold, sapphires, rubies, and vintage Wedgewood cameos Cherub hoops, $1,890
Pavé rubies surround an antique intaglio featuring a butterfly and heart with the motto Tu Me Fixe, French for "You are my only obsession." This is part of Seal & Scribe’s Love Letters capsule collection that celebrates all things love. 18k yellow gold, rubies, and antique intaglio You Are My Obsession ring, $8,500
“The pendant was on a necklace of gold beads which was just a bit too gaudy, but strung with turquoise rondelles [flat, round beads], the piece feels modern, more casual, and cool,” says Emily P. Wheeler of her upcycled necklace design. Circa-1980s heart pendant strung with new Arizona turquoise beads necklace, $28,000
According to designer Mindi Mond, “Art Deco watch bands reconceived into long dangly earrings are one of my strongest among my everyday and red carpet looks.” Including these beauties with deconstructed diamond link watch bands and links from a 1920s bracelet paired with modern saltwater pearls. Deco Gala Chandeliers with 6 carats t.w. Old Mine-cut diamonds set in platinum with natural saltwater pearls, $48,000
(Top and above) A Francesca Villa favorite, cameos “are either the focal point of the piece or have inspired several of my current collections,” like this ring with a vintage cameo surrounded by iolite and rhodolite garnets. 18k yellow gold, iolite, rhodolite, and cameo ring, $7,260
This Heavenly Vices antique love token (coin) showcases a rose, forget-me-not, and lily framed with designer Samantha Jackson’s contemporary design of 14k yellow gold, diamonds, and aquamarines. 14k yellow gold, diamonds, and aquamarines Flower Basket Love Token necklace, $3,500
Designer Grainne Morton “has amassed an incredible collection of objects," she says, "all destined to find their place among the tales she weaves within her jeweled compositions.” These eclectic creations include many of those objects, including jade and rhinestones. Ethically sourced 18k gold-plated silver, chalcedony, enamel, onyx, opal, vintage jade, and vintage rhinestone Menagerie earrings, $1,458
Designer Jimmy O’Connor of Nine and a Quarter created a bold signet ring with his mum's blue bird pendant that she had as a child. O’Connor “wanted to find a way to breathe new life into it while preserving its vintage charm.” Custom ring, price on request
KIAIA designer Francesca Ruggiero has a passion for ancient Greek, Roman, and Byzantine coins. She used ancient silver Greek coins on these treasures that date back to the 3rd century BC, featuring Athena and a sacred owl, which is a symbol of wisdom.
Goddess Athena and the Owl earrings with 3rd Century BC silver coins, 18k gold, blackened silver, and diamonds, $4,262
