Esqueleto isn’t for everyone—and it’s not supposed to be. But for jewelry lovers drawn to the alternative, edgy, and authentic-feeling, the Oakland, Calif.-based jewelry retailer is an absolute dream. Step into any of the retailer’s stores, and you immediately get the vibe: elegant, indie, artisan.
Founded by entrepreneur and fine jewelry designer Lauren Wolf in 2011, Esqueleto (Spanish for “skeleton”) offers a stylish curation of pieces, including Wolf’s own thriving jewelry collection and the store’s in-house line, from some of the most lauded independent fine jewelry designers in the U.S. and beyond.
And Esqueleto has a new-ish gem: the company opened a store in picturesque Mill Valley, Calif., in May (all of its locations are in New York and California). In addition to the fine jewelry available at all company stores, the new outpost also offers handcrafted Moroccan rugs, covetable vintage objects, and new ceramics and textiles.
At 1,100 square feet, the space boasts the feel of an open, airy art gallery, and is the largest Esqueleto shop to date. It’s already become a fixture of downtown Mill Valley, frequented by fashion lovers and betrothed couples on the hunt for ring styles not readily found at more traditional fine jewelry stores.
"I think of Esqueleto more as a lifestyle brand than a jewelry brand, but jewelry is our biggest category,” explains Wolf, who began her career after graduating from Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) in New York and went on to study metalsmithing in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico, before founding her first brick-and-mortar workshop in Oakland in 2011.
All Esqueleto stores specialize in engagement and wedding rings, and specifically spotlight sustainable jewelry brands. Wolf’s unique aesthetics drive the merchandising; the designer combines unique gems (notably salt-and-pepper diamonds) with precious metals to create rough-hewn pieces that are deeply special feeling. You won’t find classic or girly designs in Wolf’s collection, but you will encounter pieces that possess a raw and unfiltered brand of beauty.
You’ll also discover homages to archeological digs and ancient relics, such as asymmetrical arrows, talon-shaped prongs, craggy edges and distressed metals. These elements also pop up in everything from talismanic necklaces and hammered gold hoop earrings to shield rings and charms.
“I would define my jewelry design aesthetic as raw elegance,” Wolf says. “We can’t design something subtle. It’s not in our wheelhouse. I have a very, bold strong point of view. I realize my designs are very niche, but I think it’s all about finding your customer.”
Certainly, she has. In addition to its retail presence, Esqueleto has a sizable online following, which grew exponentially during the COVID-19 pandemic. Customers from across the country head to shopesqueleto.com to shop fashion jewelry and create custom-made rings—a process that begins with stone selection (Wolf prefers mined diamonds but accommodates customers who want lab-grown diamonds). The website has also become a go-to for gifty treasures including interesting books and unique fragrances and glassware.
Wolf and her team are choosy when it comes to brands they bring in. They only accept one or two new fine jewelry collections a year, and vet them carefully. “There’s a lot that goes into promoting an artist,” the designer says. “There’s photography, advertising, copywriting and social media.” Not to mention designer trunk shows and personal appearances. So, when the store adds a collection, “We really get behind someone.”
Most of the designers share Wolf’s commitment to social issues and environmental sustainability. The company supports organizations including We Wield the Hammer (a training program for woman metalsmiths of African descent), Memorial Sloan Kettering Institute, Creative Growth (a non-profit that advances the inclusion of artists with developmental disabilities in contemporary art), Children's Hospital Los Angeles, and its local food banks.
Closing in on 15 years in business, Esqueleto has championed (and in many cases, helped nurture) many jewelry brands and designers—including Sarah Swell, Atelier Narce, Amali, Anthony Lent, Megan Thorne, Katrina Lapenne, and Adeline Jewelry—who in past decades might have been stocked by Barneys New York, the ultimate taste-making retailer for “alternative” fine jewelry before its 2019 closure. Esqueleto feels, in its own earthy, less-flashy way, like it’s inherited the iconic store’s mission of finding and breaking new talent.
Of the shop’s merchandise mix, Wolf notes, “There’s an edit and cohesiveness, but every designer stands on their own within our shop. We may have a very distinct point of view, but it all must make sense. It all goes together.”
Top photo: Esqueleto's Los Feliz (L.A.) store; ring shots from a recent Esqueleto campaign. All store photos—and portrait of Lauren Wolf—by Megan Bayley, courtesy of Esqueleto.
