A new—and absolutely magical—fine jewelry exhibition has just touched down in the Allison and Roberto Mignone Halls of Gems and Minerals at the American Museum of Natural History (AMNH).
Housed in the celebrated New York institution’s Melissa and Keith Meister Gallery, Cosmic Splendor: Jewelry from the Collections of Van Cleef & Arpels is a glittering assemblage of more than 60 astronomy-inspired jewels and timepieces. The theme connects beautifully to the AMNH’s curatorial focuses of astrophysics, space exploration, and of course, the 13-billion-year history of the universe.
The entrance of the new Van Cleef & Arpels exhibit at the American Museum of Natural History
“From fiery mandarin garnet to vivid green tsavorite and rich blue lapis lazuli, Cosmic Splendor showcases stunning, astronomy-inspired jewelry that incorporates an incredible diversity of gemstones,” said Kate Kiseeva, curator of the museum’s Halls of Gems and Minerals. “Formed through the geological forces deep within the Earth, the exhibition’s dazzling creations are a fitting tribute to the beauty of the cosmos and the worlds beyond our own.”
To create the feeling of a dark, planetarium-like space, the gallery has been transformed to achieve the look of a night sky abundant with stars. There, exhibits are mounted in display cases arranged across a galaxy of celestial themes, touching on everything from science fiction voyages and moon landings to Zodiac constellations and the colorful spectacle of supernovas.
The jewelry and watch exhibits also highlight Van Cleef & Arpels’ ongoing fascination with celestial objects. In fact, they have been inspiring the iconic French jeweler since its founding in 1906: the sale of a star-shape brooch in pearls and diamonds was noted in one of the maison’s first accounting ledgers.
The oldest piece in the AMNH collection is a pocket watch dating from 1929 in platinum and enamel fitted with a moon phase complication (the brand’s first). A clip from 1940—a marvelous example of the retro era’s design codes in gold with rubies, amethysts and diamonds—seemingly alludes to space travel as imagined by the writer Jules Verne.
“The maison has always been interested in the instant where observing nature encounters poetry and the imagination,” Nicolas Bos, then-Van Cleef & Arpels president and CEO said in 2021 when the brand debuted its Sous Les Étoiles high jewelry collection. Several important jewels from that series are well-represented in the AMNH exhibition. At the time, Bos cited as inspirations the work of Jules Verne, the ancient Greek author Lucian of Samosata, Johannes Kepler, and Camille Flammarion’s illustrated Astronomie Populaire from 1880.
Cosmic Splendor: Jewelry from the Collections of Van Cleef & Arpels will be on view through January 2026. Below, all the must-see pieces to explore in this “solar system” of sparkling jewels.
In Take Me Away, find exquisite pieces that evoke the wonder and grandeur of space, from meteors and shooting stars to rocket flights real and imagined. Don’t miss: The Tampa necklace (2010), which pays tribute to Jules Verne’s novel From Earth to the Moon, with a design that includes a gem-encrusted space capsule with loops of diamonds tracing its flight (see it above).
Across the Universe showcases jewels that evoke the world’s ’s billions of swirling galaxies. Don’t miss: The Double Galaxies clips (2021), a pair of pink and mauve spiral designs inspired by the Butterfly Galaxies in the constellation Virgo (see above).
When you venture Beyond Earth, discover treasures inspired by planetary realms far beyond our own. Don’t miss: The Trappist transformable long necklace and earrings (2021) which take their name from the distant TRAPPIST-1 planetary system (above), and the Midnight Planétarium watch (2012), which tracks the rotation of the planets in our solar system.
A tribute to the Moon, Lunar Wonders celebrates our celestial satellite’s mysterious surfaces, luminous glow, and lead role in the history of space exploration. Don’t miss: The textured gold Moon pendant and brooch (1969)—with a ruby cabochon to mark the Apollo 11 mission’s landing—which are similar to clips that were given to mission’s astronauts (above).
Our Star presents a collection of spectacular jewelery creations that pay homage to the Sun, many made with spessartine garnets, citrines and brilliant yellow sapphires. Don’t miss: the Fleur de Soleil clip (2016) with a fiery orange garnet at its center, and the Sun pendant-clip (c. 1973) fashioned in yellow gold and diamonds with oval citrine cabochons.
Burning Bright features 13 jewels that take inspiration from stars, nebulae and astral events. Don’t miss: the Astre necklace (2010) is adorned with a luminous black opal at its center (see it above); and the Asterisk set (1966-1967) featuring a star-shaped clip and earrings in yellow gold, platinum, sapphires and diamonds.
“What’s your sign?” asks the jeweled objects in Lucky Stars, a group of pendants, bracelets, and timepieces that depict symbols of the Zodiac. Don’t miss: the Virgo pendant (above), resplendent in yellow and white gold with malachite and diamonds (1972).
Top photo: The new Van Cleef & Arpels exhibit at the American Museum of Natural History (Alvaro Keding/AMNH). Van Cleef & Arpels jewelry photos courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels; exhibition photos Alvaro Kedding courtesy of AMNH
